Thursday, June 30, 2011

Another Vintage Try

I chose this pattern to enter in the Vintage 2011 contest because it calls for twelve bound buttonholes and part of the challenge asked for tackling some "vintage" technique. As with the previous vintage pattern, I was doubtful I'd be able to end up with a dress in which I could echo the smart, carefree vibrance of the girls on the envelope. But I'm watching my comrades on Pattern Review successfully make garments of all kinds so I forged ahead. I have a huge beef with fashion illustration.

As before I used my sloper to adjust the pattern. I could see on the envelope that lady was about 5'10", I folded out length in the bodice and skirt. No muslin this time, I pinned my Frankenpattern to Looshilala, my dress form and everything seemed OK, but Looshi has no arms. Apparently Miss Lady on the pattern envelope has really skinny, 2D arms because I found the cut on sleeves too small. I added a gusset: I cut it on the bias, adding about 2", now it's comfortable.

This Butterick dress didn't call for the skirt lining and waist stay as the Vogue dress did so I added a lining and made a self fabric belt to keep it at the waistline. Found the belting material at Steinlauf & Stoller (thank goodness they're still in business) and a tiny buckle that went with buttons already in stash was sitting right in B&J Trimming, waiting for me.

I'm fairly pleased with how it turned out, I liked making the buttonholes, using the Bunka "Fundamentals of Fashin Design" instructions. They all came out well except I made every last one of them on the "wrong" side. I also made the bow, as seen on the envelope, from this nice cotton fabric. I forgot to pin it on though since I had to move quickly while my little photographer was sanguine about the project.

Vintage Pattern 2011

OK, I'm done. I think it is as I suspected, I do not have enough imagination to pull off these vintage patterns. This is the Vogue pattern from the last post. It turned into a comfortable dress after I adjusted it along the lines of my sloper.

I made a muslin first:
That came out OK. Then I decided to use this fabric I've had in the larder since Hector was a pup…( you'll date yourself if you know that expression).

And it was this choice that allowed me to so completely channel my Nana. Let's hear it now,__ a big, resounding, MEH!!!! And that is just fine with me. There needs be occasions where fading into the background is just what you want. I am so ready now.

I have faced the fact that I am accessory challenged. This dress needs a belt. I finished it a month ago and started another contest entry for which I made a belt, but I didn't have enough scraps left to make one for this dress and I couldn't bring myself to shop for no belt; in fact, I'm wearing a belt I bought in March when I broke down and bought 2 pairs of jeans. Since my brain loses the signal in a department store, I bought this "reversible" belt, thinking I'd be getting two belts in one__no. I got a plastic belt that sits still only when folded one way; I should have chosen which color (black or brown) I wanted and stuck with it. Someone who understands "accessorization" would not have made this clown-town mistake.

Accessory deprivation extends to the "foundations" department as well, if you catch my drift. I'd have to be demented to climb into a girdle to wear this dress, but maybe a dressier fabric might provide the motivation. This pattern has some mildly interesting details : the bust darts are routed around to a center front seam. I elected to make the more visible plaid match rather than get the seams dead on so there is a tiny jog there. The skirt darts are positioned like an upside-down V; probably more noticeable in a solid color.

All in all it was an easy pattern to make. Since I was using my sloper to fit the pattern I was grateful for its simplicity.The skirt part is lined, it has a side zip and waist stay. The instructions have you stitch that to the bodice seam allowance but the waistline seam was larger so I just tacked the stay to the seam allowance. The stay keeps the dress sitting at the waistline.
I guess this is an everyday dress for the time.